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Start with the paperwork, not the paintwork

It is easy to fall for a car before you have asked a single awkward question. The paint shines, the seats are clean, and the seller is friendly. But the money you save on a tidy-looking used car can vanish in a single garage bill, so treat the viewing as an investigation rather than a shopping trip. Build in fifteen minutes to sit down with the documents before you even open the bonnet, and ask these questions while the seller is still relaxed.

Has it ever been in an accident?

Ask directly, then ask again in a different way: "Has it ever had any panels replaced or repaired?" A seller who says "never" but then mentions a "small car park bump" has just told you something useful. Look for mismatched paint on adjacent panels, uneven gaps between the bonnet and wings, overspray on rubber seals or wheel arch liners, and fresh underseal hiding welded repairs.

• Ask whether any insurance claim was made, and whether the car was ever declared a write-off (Cat S or Cat N).
• Check the vehicle identification number on the windscreen or door pillar matches the V5C registration document.
• Ask to see invoices for any bodywork, and be wary of a car with a long list of cosmetic repairs but no mechanical service history.
• Run an independent vehicle history check before parting with money, and read the results rather than just glancing at the score.

Structural damage is not automatically a deal-breaker if it was repaired properly and the price reflects it, but you need to know, because it affects both safety and resale value.

When was the cambelt last changed, and can you prove it?

This single question can save you anywhere from several hundred to well over a thousand pounds. Many engines use a timing belt that must be replaced on a mileage or age interval, commonly somewhere between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, or every five to ten years, whichever comes first. Some manufacturers also specify a water pump and tensioner at the same time.

An owner who says "I think it was done" is not good enough. Ask for the invoice, check the mileage and date on it, and confirm it matches the service book stamps. If the belt is overdue and the engine is an interference design, a snapped belt can destroy the valves and pistons. Budget for the job in your offer if there is no proof.

What does the MOT history actually say?

The MOT test record is public, and it is one of the most honest documents about a car's life. Ask the seller for the current MOT certificate and note the advisories from previous years. Advisories are the early warning system: they tell you what a tester thought was worth watching, and whether the owner acted on it.

• Corrosion on sills, subframes or suspension mounts tends to get worse, not better, and welding is expensive.
• Oil or fluid leaks noted repeatedly suggest a problem the owner ignored.
• Tyre and brake wear advisories are cheap to fix but tell you the car has been run on a tight budget.
• Mileage entries should rise steadily year on year. Big jumps, or a lower reading than a previous year, deserve an explanation.

Also check the current MOT expiry date. A car with only a few weeks left is effectively a car you will have to test yourself, so factor that in.

How many owners has it had, and how was it used?

The V5C shows the number of previous keepers. One or two careful owners over a decade is usually a good sign. Six owners in four years suggests a car that has been passed around, perhaps because of recurring faults, or one that has been used as a stopgap.

Ask what the car was used for. A high-mileage motorway car with full service history is often a better buy than a low-mileage town car that has spent its life on short trips, never warming up properly. Short journeys are hard on diesel particulate filters, clutches, batteries and exhausts.

• Ask where it is normally parked, particularly if it is a target for catalytic converter theft or a diesel with a filter that needs longer runs.
• Ask whether it has ever been used for towing, driving tuition or delivery work.
• Ask why it is being sold, and listen for a story that does not quite fit the documents.

Questions for the test drive

Insist on starting the engine from cold, ideally before the seller has warmed it up. A cold start reveals noises, smoke and warning lights that disappear once the engine is hot. Then ask to drive a route that includes town traffic, a hill and a stretch of faster road.

• Does the clutch bite smoothly, or is it high and slipping?
• Any vibration through the steering wheel at around 60 to 70mph, which can point to wheel balancing, buckled wheels or suspension wear?
• Does the air conditioning blow genuinely cold within a minute or two?
• Are there any warning lights on the dashboard that stay lit after the engine starts?
• Does it pull to one side under braking, and do the brakes feel firm rather than spongy?

Before you leave, ask when the oil, coolant, brake fluid and tyres were last checked, and look at the tyre tread depths yourself. The legal minimum in the UK is 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the tread, but anything under 3mm is due for replacement soon.

Finally, ask what the seller would want to know if they were buying the car themselves. The answer is often more revealing than anything on the paperwork, and it tells you whether the person in front of you is being straight with you. Take your time, keep your deposit in your pocket until you have seen proof, and walk away if the answers do not add up. There will always be another car.